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· bright citrus opener
Released 2013 by Bruno Jovanovic
**Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle** opens with dry citrus and spices: bergamot and lemon are quickly caught by warm, almost powdery saffron.
Shared notes: saffron, jasmine, patchouli, vanilla, benzoin
Where it differs: bergamot, lemon, nutmeg, violet
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· floral heart
Released 2004 by Natalie Gracia-Cetto
Burberry Brit Red opens with tart rhubarb and juicy mandarin, while jasmine softens the burst before it turns sharp. At first it feels vivid and slightly cheeky, with fruity freshness and a spicy current underneath.
Shared notes: jasmine, patchouli, vanilla, benzoin
Where it differs: rhubarb, mandarin, ginger, rose
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· spicy heat
Released 2017
**Red Tobacco** opens thick and immediate, with saffron and cinnamon creating a hot, almost resinous first impression. In the first minutes, touches of green apple and pear brighten the composition without turning it sugary.
Shared notes: saffron, patchouli, jasmine, tobacco, vanilla
Where it differs: cinnamon, nutmeg, green apple, pear
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· warm amber wear
Released 2019 by Annick Menardo
**Amouage Portrayal Woman** opens thickly, almost tactile: the white-floral sweetness of sambac jasmine meets the dry, faintly peppery glow of elemi from the first breath.
Shared notes: vanilla, jasmine, benzoin, tobacco
Where it differs: jasmine sambac, elemi, tobacco accord, resins
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· warm amber wear
Released 2024 by Aurélien Guichard
Falcon Leather Extrait opens with dry saffron and cool bergamot, then quickly moves into a dense leather tone. In the heart, birch tar appears smoky and dark, with a heated resin nuance.
Shared notes: saffron, benzoin, patchouli, vanilla
Where it differs: bergamot, labdanum, oud, birch tar
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· floral heart
Released 2013 by Alienor Massenet
Lalibela Oud opens with a soft coconut sweetness and velvety orchid, without a sharp start. After a few minutes, a darker rose and jasmine move into the center, making the floral core feel denser and warmer.
Shared notes: jasmine, vanilla, tobacco, patchouli
Where it differs: coconut, orchid, rose, oud