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· bright citrus opener
Released 2009 by Pierre Montale
Boise Fruite opens with a dry citrus chord: bergamot feels light and slightly tart, with no syrupy sweetness. Very soon, a green touch of violet leaves appears, giving the composition a cool, smooth texture.
Shared notes: violet leaves, vetiver
Where it differs: bergamot, lime, mandarin leaves, sandalwood
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· floral heart
Released 2018 by Olivier Pescheux
**Diptyque Tempo Eau de Parfum** opens with dry green facets and the light bitterness of mate, creating a cool, almost graphite-toned first impression.
Where it differs: bergamot, violet leaf, clary sage, mate
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· woody backbone
**Diptyque Philosykos Eau de Toilette** unfolds like a walk beneath a fig tree at the hottest hour of the day, when the air carries the scent of leaves, bark and fruit sap at once.
Where it differs: fig leaf, green notes, bergamot, coconut
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· fresh aquatic
**Wave Musk** opens with a cool saline flash, like wind moving over the water early in the morning. The bitter citrus edge of grapefruit and the green accent of grass give it a dry, almost mineral start with no syrupy sweetness.
Shared notes: violet leaves, vetiver
Where it differs: grapefruit, black currant, marine notes, grass
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· floral heart
Released 2026 by Juliette Karagueuzoglou
Maison Margiela Up At Dawn reads as a floral-woody study of a cool morning in a rose garden. It opens with pink pepper, elemi, and earthy facets, where spice and fresh soil create the impression of damp dawn air.
Where it differs: earthy notes, pink pepper, elemi, rose
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· floral heart
**Maison Margiela Delight in Despair** opens with a dry burst of bergamot and pepper. The first impression feels cool and slightly sharp, like air just before a storm.
Shared notes: vetiver
Where it differs: bergamot, saffron, black pepper, violet leaf